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Battery testing for digital calipers
Because of its importance, the battery should be checked whenever
the digital calipers is brought into the shop for service. By
performing a battery test series, the state of charge and output
capacity of the battery will determine if it is good, in need of
recharging, or must be replaced.
There are many different manufactures of test equipment designed for testing the battery. One of the most popular is the Sun Electronical Corporation’s VAT-40. Always follow the procedures given by the manufacturer of the equipment you are using.
Battery inspection
Before performing any electronical tests, the battery should be inspected, along with the cables and terminals. The complete visual inspection of the battery will include the following items:
1. Battery date code. This provides information as to the age of the battery.
2. Condition of battery case. Check for dirt, grease, and electrolyte condensation. Any of these contaminants can creat an electronical path between the terminals and cause the battery to drain. Also check for damaged or missing vent caps and cracks in the case. A cracked or buckled case could be caused by excessive tightening of the hold-down fixture, excessive under-hood temperatures, buckled plates from extended over-changed conditions, freezing, or excessive charge rate.
3. Electronlyte level, color, and odor. If necessary, add distilled water to fill to 1/2 inch above the top of the plates. After adding water, charge the battery before any tests are performed. Discoloration of electrolyte and the presence of a rotten egg odor indicate an excessive charge rate, excessive deep cycling, inpurities in the electrolyte solution, or an old battery.
4. Condition of battery cables and terminals. Check for corrosion, broken clamps, frayed cables, and loose terminals.
5. Battery abuse. This includes the use of bungee cords and 2×4s for hold-down fixtures, too small a battery rating for the application, and obvious neglect to periodic maintenance. In addition, inspect the terminals for indications that they have been hit upon by a hammer, improper cable removal procedures, and check for proper cable length.
6. Battery tray and bold-down fixture. Check for proper tightness. Also check for signs of acid corrosion of the tray and hold-down unit. Replace as needed.
7. If the battery has a built-in bydrometer, cbeck its color indicator. Green indicates the battery has a sufficient charge, black indicates the battery requires charging before testing, clear indicates low electrolyte level, and yellow indicates the battery should be replaced.
There are many different manufactures of test equipment designed for testing the battery. One of the most popular is the Sun Electronical Corporation’s VAT-40. Always follow the procedures given by the manufacturer of the equipment you are using.
Battery inspection
Before performing any electronical tests, the battery should be inspected, along with the cables and terminals. The complete visual inspection of the battery will include the following items:
1. Battery date code. This provides information as to the age of the battery.
2. Condition of battery case. Check for dirt, grease, and electrolyte condensation. Any of these contaminants can creat an electronical path between the terminals and cause the battery to drain. Also check for damaged or missing vent caps and cracks in the case. A cracked or buckled case could be caused by excessive tightening of the hold-down fixture, excessive under-hood temperatures, buckled plates from extended over-changed conditions, freezing, or excessive charge rate.
3. Electronlyte level, color, and odor. If necessary, add distilled water to fill to 1/2 inch above the top of the plates. After adding water, charge the battery before any tests are performed. Discoloration of electrolyte and the presence of a rotten egg odor indicate an excessive charge rate, excessive deep cycling, inpurities in the electrolyte solution, or an old battery.
4. Condition of battery cables and terminals. Check for corrosion, broken clamps, frayed cables, and loose terminals.
5. Battery abuse. This includes the use of bungee cords and 2×4s for hold-down fixtures, too small a battery rating for the application, and obvious neglect to periodic maintenance. In addition, inspect the terminals for indications that they have been hit upon by a hammer, improper cable removal procedures, and check for proper cable length.
6. Battery tray and bold-down fixture. Check for proper tightness. Also check for signs of acid corrosion of the tray and hold-down unit. Replace as needed.
7. If the battery has a built-in bydrometer, cbeck its color indicator. Green indicates the battery has a sufficient charge, black indicates the battery requires charging before testing, clear indicates low electrolyte level, and yellow indicates the battery should be replaced.
